Abi's Deep Dive

The date was set, I was going off on an adventure with two volunteers from GVI: James, from the UK, and Nitza, from the US with Mexican parents so bilingual. The CRIP team (see the post about monitoring) would have all of the food and water and general supplies we would need, we just needed to pack our snorkelling kit, hammocks and mosquito nets. Due to the protected status of the area things like moisturiser, sun screen and insect repellant are not allowed as they are poisonous to sea life including coral. Being on a boat all day for the monitoring in 32-37 degree sun also meant that taking clothes for covering up was important. The plan was to travel from base at 5am on Monday, drive to Mahahual and then get a boat to Chinchorro. We had a vague idea of what we would be doing: my boss kept telling me we would sleep in a palafito above the water that had crocodiles and bull sharks underneath it, and to make sure I took all of the emergency action plans (they are titled with things like….in the case of a crocodile bite, capsized boat, shark bite) I was excited but also apprehensive, free diving is hard and I had no idea how deep the sites would be. What if I couldn’t do it, I would let everyone down!! 

On Saturday departure was delayed as big storms came into Mexico, then it was a waiting game to see when the sea would be good to cross. On the Tuesday Miguel came to pick us up at 4.45am. I’d kept waking through the night nervous in case I wasn’t up on time so by the time he arrived I was two coffees in! We went to the base, met the team we would be working with, Thalia, Lalo and Serena, and helped to load the two trucks we would be travelling in. Nitza, James and I were in the Dodge Ram with Lalo. It’s a big truck!! There was so much stuff: science equipment, big bottles of water, two great big cool boxes and crates of food. We eventually set off in the dark, the first bit of our journey to the island I had waited for a year to see.

We got to Tulum 2 hours later and stopped for breakfast. There are street stands everywhere in Mexico and we were told this is the best one in Tulum. The food was delicious and messy!!

With full tummies and cups of coffee we set off again to Mahahual. We were nearly there and Lalo pulled off the main road down a road that was more pothole than road until we got to a workshop. He backed the truck in and a family appeared with a huge block of ice. They chipped away at it until our cold boxes were full, then we were on our way again. It wasn’t much further until we got to Mahahual and the harbour we would be leaving from. The boats weren’t ready so James, Nitza and I went for a walk to explore and find our partner dive shop where our divemasters can go to get qualified. James will be there for three months from mid September.

We headed back to the boats and a lady and her children appeared holding two puppies! Lovely little dogs but with flea bites all over them. The little girl chatted excitedly to me in Spanish and didn’t seem to mind that I only understood the odd word! 

Boats loaded (and one motor replaced) we set off to the island. I love being on boats so I spent most of the journey grinning and thinking about what a great work day this was!! The sun was out, the sky was blue and all I could see was the clearest water all around. My Spanish isn’t good enough to have more than a basic conversation, so with the noise of the engine as well, I was satisfied to listen to my companions chat and just soak up the sounds of the boat and the sea, and enjoy the feel of the sun and sea on my skin. It was a practise in meditation to still my thoughts and just enjoy the time it took to get to the island.

After time I could see the water ahead was the brightest turquoise. We were coming into Banco Chinchorro and it was absolutely beautiful. We approached through ever brightening water and I got the first views of the island that was going to be my home for the next few days…..

The water is shallow so engines are lifted out and the fishermen use long poles to propel the boat into the shore. As we got closer to shore the fishermen pointed to something in the water, it was a crocodile cruising our way. So still in the water but expecting a snack from the fishermen. This was my first view of the beasts who would be a constant companion…